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When assembling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee well-known high-end names. Yet, nestled high among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a outlying area of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This honour has left the proprietors totally astonished.

“I am utterly shocked,” says a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their humble place earning such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the fare, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary achievement.